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The decision to start dreadlocks (or “locs”) is a long-term commitment that fundamentally changes your hair’s texture and care routine. Unlike other hairstyles, locs undergo a biological maturation process that can take anywhere from six months to two years [1]. Choosing the wrong starter method can lead to issues like thinning roots, excessive frizz, or locs that unravele easily.
This guide breaks down the most effective methods for different hair types, evaluating their pros and cons based on salon standards and real-world user experiences.
Table of Contents
- 1. Finger Coils/Comb Coils
- 2. Backcombing
- 3. Two-Strand Twists
- 4. Interlocking
- 5. Freeform (Neglect Method)
- Comparison Table: Choosing Your Method
- Maintenance and Scalp Health
- Summary of Key Takeaways
- Sources
1. Finger Coils/Comb Coils
This is the most common professional method for starting locs on curly or coily hair (Type 3 and 4). A stylist uses a fine-toothed comb or their fingers to create small, uniform coils using a locking gel or wax.
Pros: Creates very neat, uniform, and cylindrical locs. It allows for precise parting, giving you a structured look from day one [2].
Cons: Coils are hollow on the inside, making them more prone to unraveling during the first few washes. They also take longer to “bud” (the internal matting process) compared to other methods.
Best For: Individuals with 4C hair who want a professional, manicured appearance.
Because coils are hollow on the inside, they lack a solid internal core initially. This makes them more susceptible to coming undone during the first few washes until the internal matting process begins.
The budding process for coils typically takes longer than other methods because the hair must first mat internally. For many, this process starts within a few months depending on hair texture and maintenance.
2. Backcombing
Backcombing is the standard for straight or wavy hair textures. The hair is sectioned, and a metal dread comb is used to tease the hair toward the scalp, creating a knotty “base” for the loc [3].
Pros: It provides instant volume and a look that resembles mature dreadlocks immediately. It is highly effective for hair that does not naturally knot.
Cons: The process can be painful on the scalp and damaging if done too aggressively. It requires significant maintenance, including the use of residue-free shampoos and palm rolling to keep the shape [4].
Best For: Straight, fine, or Caucasian hair types.
Backcombing is specifically the standard method for straight, fine, or wavy hair textures. It is highly effective for hair that does not naturally knot or curl on its own.
While it can be stressful on the scalp and hair shaft, damage can be minimized by avoiding overly aggressive teasing. Using residue-free shampoos and proper palm rolling helps maintain health during the process.
3. Two-Strand Twists
Two-strand twists involve taking two sections of hair and wrapping them around each other. Over time, the internal pattern of the twist disappears as the hair mats.
Pros: These are much more durable than coils and less likely to unravel during a workout or a shower. They also create thicker, more “solid” locs [2].
Cons: The twist pattern can remain visible for several months (sometimes up to a year) before the hair fully mats. This may bother those looking for an immediate “pure” loc look.
Best For: People with longer natural hair who want a low-maintenance starting phase.
The distinct two-strand pattern can remain visible for several months, and in some cases, up to a year. Eventually, as the hair mats internally, the pattern disappears and the loc becomes solid.
Two-strand twists are significantly more durable and less likely to unravel during physical activity or washing. They are an excellent choice for those with longer natural hair seeking a lower-maintenance start.
4. Interlocking
Interlocking uses a small tool to pull the end of the loc through the root in a “sewing” motion. This creates a friction-locked base that cannot unravel.
Pros: Excellent for active individuals who sweat or swim frequently, as the locs are physically locked. It is also ideal for fine hair that struggles to stay coiled [1].
Cons: If not done correctly, interlocking can create a “Y” gap at the root or cause thinning due to excessive tension. It creates a thinner, tighter loc than palm-rolling methods.
Best For: Sensitive scalps or people who want to wash their hair immediately after starting.
If done incorrectly, interlocking can create a ‘Y’ gap at the root or cause thinning due to excessive tension. It is important to ensure the tool is used with the correct tension and direction to avoid scalp stress.
Yes, interlocking is one of the best methods for people who want to wash their hair or swim right away. Because the hair is physically locked with a tool, it is much more resistant to unraveling when wet.
5. Freeform (Neglect Method)
Freeform locs are started by simply stopping the use of combs and brushes, allowing the hair to knot naturally over time. While this is the most “natural” method, it is also the most unpredictable.
Pros: Zero cost and zero chemical or tool intervention. It is a popular choice for those who view locs as a spiritual journey rather than just a style.
Cons: You have no control over the size or shape of the locs. Hair can form massive “flats” or “congos” (multiple locs merging) which some may find unappealing.
Important Note: Just because you aren’t styling doesn’t mean you aren’t cleaning. Just as we emphasize the importance of The Key Benefits of Using Organic Skincare Products for health, maintaining a clean scalp is vital during the freeform process to prevent buildup and odor.
Absolutely. Cleanliness is vital for freeform locs to prevent buildup and odor. Regular washing with appropriate products is recommended even if you aren’t using tools or styling the hair.
Congos occur when two or more separate locs naturally merge together to form one thick loc. This is a common occurrence in the neglect method since there is no parting or manipulation to keep sections separate.
Comparison Table: Choosing Your Method
| Method | Best Hair Type | Durability | Time to Mature |
|---|---|---|---|
| Comb Coils | Coily/Kinky | Low | 6-12 Months |
| Backcombing | Straight/Wavy | Medium | 12-24 Months |
| Two-Strand Twist | Curly/Coily | High | 6-12 Months |
| Interlocking | All Types | Very High | Immediate |
| Freeform | All Types | Variable | 1-3 Years |
| Method | Durability | Suitability |
|---|---|---|
| Comb Coils | Low | Fragile hair; High aesthetic focus |
| Backcombing | Medium | Straight hair; Instant texture |
| Two-Strand | High | Active users; Long natural hair |
| Interlocking | Very High | Athletes; Thin hair types |
| Freeform | Variable | Natural growth; No maintenance |
Interlocking is generally recommended for active individuals because the friction-locked base is the most resistant to unraveling from sweat and frequent washing.
For 4C hair, comb coils are preferred for a neat, manicured look, while two-strand twists are the better option if you prioritize durability and resistance to unraveling.
Maintenance and Scalp Health
Starting locs is a physical transformation that can occasionally cause scalp stress. If you experience itchiness or tension-related breakouts along the hairline, it is important to manage your stress levels, as we detailed in our guide on Stress and Your Skin: 5 Ways to Prevent Stress Breakouts.
Itchiness often stems from scalp stress or tension. It is important to keep the scalp clean and manage stress levels, as tension-related breakouts can occur along the hairline during the initial locking phase.
High stress levels can lead to skin and scalp breakouts. Maintaining a healthy lifestyle and managing scalp tension are key to ensuring your locs thrive without causing irritation.
Summary of Key Takeaways
Comparison Summary:
For Straight Hair: Use the Backcombing method with a residue-free shampoo to ensure the knots stay tight.
For 4C Hair: Comb Coils offer the neatest look, while Two-Strand Twists offer better durability.
For High-Activity Lifestyles: Interlocking is the best choice because it won’t unravel when wet.
Action Plan: 1. Prep your hair: Use a clarifying shampoo (no conditioner) to remove all oils and residues before starting [3]. 2. Section carefully: Use 1-inch by 1-inch squares for medium-sized locs. 3. Choose your tool: Buy a metal dread comb for backcombing or a latch hook for interlocking. 4. Dry completely: Never go to sleep with damp locs, as this can lead to “dread rot” (mold inside the loc).
Choosing a starter method is about balancing your hair texture with your lifestyle. Regardless of the method, the most important ingredients are patience and a consistent cleaning routine.
| Decision Factor | Recommended Starter Method | Essential Tools |
|---|---|---|
| Straight Hair Texture | Backcombing | Metal Dread Comb |
| Coily (4C) Texture | Finger Coils or Twists | Locking Gel / Tail Comb |
| Frequent Washing/Swimming | Interlocking | Latch Hook / Crochet Needle |
| Low Maintenance Need | Freeform | Clarifying Shampoo |
You should use a clarifying shampoo to remove all oils and residues, and avoid using any conditioner. This creates the friction-rich environment necessary for hair to begin matting.
No, you should never go to sleep with damp locs. This can lead to ‘dread rot,’ which is mold growth inside the loc, so always ensure they are completely dry before bed.